Garment Details Secondary Research

Garment details, which include specific elements, decorations, and features, are essential factors that enhance the appearance, wearability, and overall design of the apparel. The ability to elevate a garment into something special, as well as a deep understanding of design principles, are necessary for the successful integration of these aspects.

A noteworthy garment detail is embroidery, the craft of embellishing fabric with a needle and thread to create complex patterns, motifs, or designs. A way I can implement this into my work is by experimenting with embroidered motifs on collars, cuffs, or focus areas to put this method into practice. By adding symbolic or individualized touches, embroidery can convey a story. Alexander McQueen is a prime example of an artist who uses embroidery successfully; he is well-known for his elaborate and dramatic stitching, which included dark Gothic and delicate floral designs. An example of this is Alexander McQueen's Spring 1999 Skirt Suit (Look 52). This is a piece that I got to physically wear. My friend owns the blazer of this look and I got the opportunity to try it on. I love the contrast of the texture of the concentrated threads versus the smooth silk on the jacket.

Pleating gives a garment texture and volume by folding the fabric into parallel ridges. Pleating can be used to add movement and visual interest to sleeves, dresses, and skirts. An outstanding example is seen in Issey Miyake's Pleats Please line, where innovative pleating techniques not only captivate visually but also serve highly functional purposes. The "Staircase" garment, one of his famous pleated polyester creations, is a particularly good example of Miyake's obsession with the sculptural potential of fabric. Despite the garment's bold, ziggurat-like shape, the designer uses the pleated structure of the fabric to create a paper-like fluff and fur to highlight the fundamental flatness of each of the four panels that make up the body of the dress. I am inspired by this architectural approach that incorporates structure and functionality but is also visually captivating via its angular qualities. Not only do I believe pleats are visually innovative, but it is also a practical innovation as it completely alters the function of a garment and the way its fabric moves.

Cutouts give designs a surprising and sensual touch by removing portions of cloth to reveal negative space or certain shapes within a garment. I can incorporate cutouts carefully in places like the back, sleeves, and collar. Azzedine Alaïa is a pioneer in the use of cuts to create complex patterns and textures. A clear example of this in his work is this red dress presented in his 'I Prefer Paris: Azzedine Alaia “Je Suis Couturier”' exhibit. The cutout in the center of the dress is a smart design in the sense that it creates a pattern of diamond shapes throughout the dress. Another pattern that is employed is the fabric used. The shoulder straps of the dress are transparent, then the bust is a solid red fabric, then the cutout on the stomach area is transparent again and finally, the skirt is the same solid red fabric. This use of pattern in both color and shape is unifying regarding its design and is satisfying to viewers. I am inspired to implement these aspects into my design as well.

Ruffles are pleated or collected strips of fabric that are sewn onto clothing to give it a voluminous and frilly look. To achieve the right amount of drama, I can play around with the sizes and positioning of ruffles on sleeves, cuffs, and hems. Falling ruffles are a common element in Giambattista Valli's romantic and feminine designs, demonstrating the detail's adaptability. A favorite look of mine from his collection 'Haute Couture 25' is his first look. The contrastive nature of the white color of the textural ruffles versus the smooth, black dress over it is captivating and dramatic. It is a clever juxtaposition and to me, is a modern version of an evening gown from the 1850s-60s.

Additionally, the avant-garde technique of layering, which combines several pieces of clothing or layers of fabric to produce a visually complex style, is promoted by designers such as Comme des Garçons' Rei Kawakubo. To provide visual interest, I can try layering various materials, lengths, or textures and experimenting with opposing colors. In Comme Des Garçons AW18, Kawakubo employs this technique very successfully. She uses a variety of textiles in different colors and textures that create a surreal and playful style when layered. I am inspired to create something colorful and textured in my work.

Moreover, fringes, which are fabric strands or threads hanging from a garment's edge, add movement and a fun element. During his time at Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane often used fringes to give the brand's designs a rock 'n' roll edge. A look that perfectly reflects this is a look from Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent Spring 2015 collection. Although at first glance the fringe is not noticeable upfront; however, as the model walks the fringe's texture and movement create a dynamic piece that is both captivating and eye-catching. In my future designs, although I can make a piece monochrome, I can use a technique such as creating fringe on the garment to add texture and visual interest which can elevate the design further.

I should take into account the garment's/my design's overarching theme when putting these garment details into practice. I will allow my imagination to lead me as I play with proportions and try out new combinations. Successful clothing details add to the narrative and personality of my designs in addition to improving visual appeal.

Bibliography

Olalla, E. (2023) Details make the difference: The importance of details in fashion, IN MADE SPAIN. Available at: https://www.inmadespain.com/blogs/entrevista-1/details-make-the-difference-the-importance-of-details-in-fashion (Accessed: 27 December 2023).

Alexander McQueen spring 1999 skirt suit (look 52) (no date) Vintage Grace. Available at: https://vintagegraceny.com/products/alexander-mcqueen-s-s-1999-look-52-skirt-suit (Accessed: 27 December 2023).

Japanese, D.I.M. and Design House Miyake Design Studio Japanese (no date) Issey Miyake: ‘staircase pleats’: Japanese, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Available at: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/112860 (Accessed: 27 December 2023).

{{productdata.name}} (no date) 38153164 - Online Store. Available at: https://tiesalesm.live/product_details/38153164.html (Accessed: 27 December 2023).

Haute couture 25 - giambattista valli paris: Haute Couture (2023) Giambattista Valli Paris | Haute Couture. Available at: https://www.giambattistavalli.com/en/ligne/haute-couture/haute-couture-25/ (Accessed: 27 December 2023).

Allwood, E.H. (2018) Rei Kawakubo explores camp and kitsch at Comme des Garçons, Dazed. Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/39270/1/rei-kawakubo-explores-camp-and-kitsch-at-comme-des-garcons (Accessed: 27 December 2023).

Blanks, T. (2014) Saint Laurent spring 2015 menswear collection, Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/saint-laurent#review (Accessed: 27 December 2023).

RESEARCH

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